Festa ba krizma

It began at 10am Sunday and didn’t stop until 1am Monday. The “vizinu” (neighbours) diagonally opposite us had a “festa ba krizma” (confirmation party) for their 16-year-old boy child. A child experiences three “krizma” during their lifetime (as a baby, young child and teenager). The “vizinu” directly opposite us (you know the ones) provided the music. We had to endure many repeat performances of Rod Stewart’s “I am Sailing” sung badly and in various languages. It was tolerable during the course of the day and when we experienced a power blackout at 7pm, we thought, great, they can’t continue and we can go to bed. How wrong we were. With power restored around 9pm, the music started up again blaring out from industrial strength speakers. I was so incensed that I went and asked “our” family if they could go over to the revellers and ask them to turn it off. No such luck, the partygoers were drinking and got antsy with Senyora Domingas for even asking. I certainly did not want to have to write about “baku malu” (fight) number three (see “Baku malu” number 2 and Welcome to the neighbourhood).

We sat and stewed (me in particular) in our bedroom for the next two hours hoping that it would stop. Soon after 11pm, we went outside to find the adult members of “our” family sitting outside in the dark unable to sleep. They pulled out the ubiquitous plastic chairs, which pass for furniture in Timor, and we sat around talking in Tetum (with Daniel translating the bits I didn’t quite understand). Sitting chatting with “our” family was the only good thing to come out of the whole bloody episode. Senyor Raphael as expected did most of the talking while the three adult women listened. He said that the problem with the men playing the music (one of whom is Senyora’s younger brother) is that they were raised in “tempu Indonezia” (Indonesian times) and thus have no respect for others. He said that those Timorese (including himself and Senyora) raised during “tempu Portuges” (Portuguese times) were more respectful and wouldn’t behave in such a manner. Moreover, these young things won’t be told to turn off their music!

However, Senyor’s comments deserve further analysis. I don’t believe that the Portuguese were any more of a disciplining influence on the young than the Indonesians. The latter were far more brutal and suppressed all dissent, but this isn’t quite the same thing. I believe what Senyor was referring to is the change in Timorese society where young people are starting to question their elders and beginning to live freer lives (comparatively speaking). It is no different in the West when the older generations complain about the lack of respect they perceive in “young people these days” and that the solution to their insolence is more (violent) discipline often combined with calls for the reinstatement of national service. What often isn’t appreciated is that we increasingly live in a world where people are encouraged to question their elders and community leaders and to think for themselves; and this is a pre-requisite if genuine equality is ever to flourish. It can also reduce the incidence of child abuse as children are taught to take care of themselves and not to let others violate them simply because the violators are adults and therefore must be obeyed (respect for elders also has a very dark side). All of this I totally support for I want my children to question me (as much as it may pain me at the time!) and to develop respect for themselves and others, which isn’t based on deference for hierarchy (gender and age) but based on an individual’s human rights (see also Teaching children with violence and Violence as a means of resolving problems).

What I don’t like is the total and utter lack of respect for others that these young men clearly regularly exhibit (as do many young and not so young people in any country). They don’t understand that living in a community requires one to treat others as they would like to be treated (respect for self and others). With greater freedom and expanded rights comes increased responsibilities and the need for self-imposed boundaries. Recently two of them decided to service their motorcycle at midnight and we had to endure the loud revs of the engine. A few weeks later, it happened again but this time with their “mikrolet”. Why the hell did they need to service their vehicles at midnight? Their unthoughtful actions impinge on my and many others’ right to enjoy a peaceful night’s sleep. This is simply unjust, but how can I address it? Consequently they are very bad role models for the five young children who live in the (very small) house with them (five adult men and two women live in the house but I have yet to figure out which children are whose).

We are thinking of tracking down the “xefe aldeia” (village sub-chief or councillor) and asking her/him to have a word with our problem “vizinu”. “Our” family’s connection has in the past had some influence on their behaviour, but it is clear that the need to party can take precedence. Maybe it is time to take the matter to a higher authority. In the meantime, I am suffering from sleep deficit and consequently feel like crap.

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

Mass mutiny hits East Timor army

by Mark Dodd, The Australian

"More than 400 mutinous East Timorese soldiers -- a quarter of the country's army -- will be dismissed for deserting after protesting over poor conditions and selective promotions.

The mass sacking is a great blow to the strength of East Timor's fledgling defence force and poses a potential security risk.

At large is a volatile, undisciplined group with military training who were previously seasoned guerrilla fighters against the Indonesian occupiers.

Their dismissal is also an embarrassment for Canberra because most of the rebel troops received training from the Australian Defence Force as part of the Howard Government's $26million defence co-operation program with East Timor.

East Timor Prime Minister Mari Alkatiri has threatened further punishment for the mutineers, including civil and military justice.

Dr Alkatiri said many were former resistance fighters "not used to the discipline of a regular military force".

Most of the 400 are former Falintil guerrilla veterans of the bloody 24-year struggle for independence against Indonesia.

Ambiguity remained over the timing of the dismissals. According to one senior Western military source, the rebel troops had been given until tomorrow to end their "strike", while other reports suggested the sackings had already occurred.

East Timor's army commander, Brigadier-General Taur Matan Ruak, was quoted in one of Dili's mainstream newspapers, Suara Timor Lefte, as having "thanked" the rebels for their service and considered them dismissed for refusing to meet a deadline to return to base.

The standoff began on February 8 when the soldiers deserted their barracks and arrived in Dili to present a petition to their commander-in-chief, President Xanana Gusmao, asking for their complaints to be investigated.

Mr Gusmao accepted the petition and ordered the troops to return to base. The order was refused despite the rebels winning a government inquiry into their grievances.

East Timor human rights group Yayasan-HAK said the army lacked a "transparent" code of military conduct, and disciplinary problems within the ranks of the 1500-strong force were increasingly widespread.

"We found there was no regulation or disciplinary code and no regulations concerning promotion," Yayasan-HAK spokesman Jose Oliveira said.

The ADF has played a key role in training the F-FDTL."

For a transcript of an interview with Australia’s Defence Force Minister about the issue, click here.

Source: The Australian/ABC News

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

CVA Meets With Human Rights NGOs

"The Commissioners of the Truth and Friendship Commission (CVA) yesterday met with a number of Human Rights NGOs. Director of Yayasan HAK Jose Luis Guterres told TP that the Commissioners were interested to discuss the NGOs’ position on not agreeing with the Commission. He said that they explained to the Commissioners that what the NGOs want is not a further attempt to uncover the truth, which is already evident, but the follow-up action to that truth. Commenting on the “friendship” aspect, Guterres stated that there has been friendship between the Indonesian and Timorese people for a long time now, realized through a range of means including during the period of struggle for independence when many Indonesians worked with the Timorese clandestine. He affirmed that this friendship is continuing even now, and that the issue therefore is not one of “Indonesians as perpetrators and Timorese as victims”. He expressed his opinion that the real issue is that the perpetrators of crimes have violated the public interest of both Indonesia and Timor-Leste, and stated that it is pointless meeting with the victims if the aim is to collect more data, as this has been done many times before. Referring to the fact that the Terms of Reference of the Commission do not include providing justice for the victims, Guterres affirmed his view that the CVA has been set up to deceive the people.

Also participating in the meeting with the CVA Commissioners, Director of the Justice and Peace Commission for the Baucau Diocese Father Martinho da Silva Gusmao told TP that the final report of the CVA should not be trivialised as the CAVR report was."

Source: Timor Post (from UNOTIL Public Information Office, Daily Media Review)

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

HIV/AIDS Increase in TL

"Speaking at the second National Congress on HIV/AIDS, Vice-Minister of Health Luis Lobato said informed that presently in Timor-Lese 33 people have been identified as positive with HIV/AIDS and 200 others are suspected to have been infected with the virus. Lobato said as steps have been taken to prevent HIV/AIDS and to decrease the negative attitude towards people infected with the virus. According to Timor Post, participants from education and health sector, international and national NGO’s, the Armed and Police Forces, religious organisation all participated in the Congress."

Source: Timor Post (from UNOTIL Public Information Office, Daily Media Review)

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

China, East Timor to boost military exchanges

"Defense Ministers of China and East Timor vow to further promote military exchanges in their talks held here Thursday.

China’s Defense Minister also expressed his appreciation for East Timor's support on the Taiwan issue.

Timor’s Defense Minister reiterated his firm adherence to the one-China policy."

Source: Xinhuanet (from UNOTIL Public Information Office, Daily Media Review)

Many of the current leaders of East Timor spent the last quarter of a century trying to convince the world that the desire for self-determination of a small nation is more important than the appeasement of large bullying nations who use their political, economic and military might recklessly to advance their own self-interest.

How they can now forget this past and abandon a nation like Taiwan is truly upsetting. Pragmatic politics - maybe, morally bankrupt - definitely. The same goes for their lack of support for the West Papuan people dying right now in the same way Timorese died, in many cases at the hands of the same criminals who the Timorese government doesn't feel should be brought to trial. What is wrong with this picture? How quickly a comfy house and a padded chair turns the revolutionary into the protector of the status quo!

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

Timor Leste seeks military ties with RI

"Timor Leste wants to normalize military relations with Indonesia, despite unresolved human rights cases involving Indonesian soldiers during the country's occupation.

"Let bygones be bygones and let's start cooperation in defence," Timor Leste military chief Matan Ruak said during a meeting with members of the bilateral Commission of Truth and Friendship in Dili. "

Source: The Jakarta Post (from UNOTIL Public Information Office, Daily Media Review)

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

Rights group urges veto of Timor- Leste Defamation Law

"The East Timor and Indonesia Action Network (ETAN) has urged Xanana Gusmao, President of Timor-Leste, to veto the criminal defamation provisions contained in the country’s new Penal Code.

In a letter to President Gusmao, the group wrote "One of the foundations of a democratic society is the ability of its people to speak truth to power. If Timor-Leste's Government tries to suppress such speech, we fear for the future of your democracy and for the future stability of your nation."

"ETAN joins international journalists groups, Timor-Leste journalist and legal associations, East Timorese Catholic clergy, the UN Secretary General, the U.S. Secretary of State and others in urging East Timor's leaders to live up to their constitutional obligation to protect freedom of expression, not limit it," said John M. Miller, National Coordinator of ETAN. " The new nation can only benefit from robust political debate; the proposed defamation provisions will stifle discussion."

East Timor's truth commission (CAVR) has also recommended that defamation not be criminalized.

The complete letter can be found here.

The proposed law would impose unlimited fines for those convicted of criminal defamation. Penalties for defamation through the media are greater, as are penalties (three years in prison) if those defamed are performing "public, religious or political duties." The truth of the statements would not necessarily serve as a defense. Legal analysts say that the penal code would grant greater protection to public officials than to others. Under current law, defamed individuals can sue for civil damages.

East Timor has ratified the major international human rights conventions which guarantee freedoms of speech and the press, incorporating these rights into East Timorese law.

ETAN advocates for democracy, justice and human rights for East Timor and Indonesia. For more information, see ETAN's website."

Source: ETAN

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

East Timor takes steps to avoid pitfalls of oil wealth

"Asia's newest nation, East Timor, is also its poorest, with about 40 percent of its one million inhabitants living in poverty. But its prospects are brightening, at least for now.

Rumbling deep below the Timor Sea, between the nation's southern coast and Australia, are billions of dollars of untapped oil and gas reserves. East Timor, which is in the early stages of drawing on those resources, is expecting a huge windfall over the next few decades.

Celebrations, however, have yet to begin. Oil wealth in developing countries has often turned out to be more an affliction than a cure, especially in places where corrupt officials siphon off the revenue.

Seeking to safeguard the nation's new oil wealth, the East Timorese Parliament followed the advice of foreign donors and passed legislation last year to establish a petroleum fund to manage the flow of revenue and discourage corruption.

The move was hailed as a positive step, one that could help the country avoid the pitfalls of Chad, where a petroleum fund intended for poverty alleviation fell to pieces last month. There, against the wishes of the World Bank, the government amended laws giving Chad's officials more freedom to spend their oil money in any manner they wanted. Last month the bank suspended $124 million in payments to Chad.

In East Timor, the proceeds from oil have the potential to take care of the country's infrastructure, schools and health needs, said Elisabeth Huybens, World Bank country manager. "One cannot underestimate how important this is," she said, adding that there was a "fairly solid set of arrangements" to protect the sanctity of the oil fund.

The East Timorese legislation requires all revenue from oil and gas to be deposited into a single account. It allows the government to spend only a small fraction of that revenue, an amount dependent on gains made by the fund's investments. The bulk of the money is to be invested in low-risk bonds. When oil and gas reserves run out, there should still be substantial amounts left for future generations, Huybens said.

The law establishes several monitoring organizations to supervise the management of the fund, and the monitors are required to publish findings periodically to the public. But whether the money will remain safe is open to question, said Charlie Scheiner, a researcher with Lao Hamutuk, a local non-government organization in East Timor. Like Chad, the government could easily amend the fund law to gain more power over the money, he said. "The fund is not well protected," he said. "The law doesn't require any special resolution or justification for alterations to the fund."

Expectations for development are now growing as oil money begins to flow. One of East Timor's smaller deposits, Bayu-Undan, began production in February last year and the government's budget has increased from $80 million to almost twice that in 2006.

The Bayu-Undan field is expected to generate roughly $250 million annually over its projected 20-year life span, about $5 billion in all.

In addition, East Timor and Australia signed an agreement last month to share revenue from another area of oil and gas deposits known as Greater Sunrise. The two countries will divide the revenue evenly, giving East Timor an additional $10 billion, depending on oil prices, over the development's projected 30-year life, said Geir Ytreland, a Norwegian adviser to the East Timor government.

On March 17, East Timor will begin selling 11 oil and gas contract areas situated near its southern coastline that are entirely under East Timor's jurisdiction. Ytreland said these deposits could generate revenue similar to the Greater Sunrise development.

East Timor became independent in 2002 after 24 years of Indonesian control and several years of United Nations administration. After East Timor voted for independence in 1999, Indonesian militias led a scorched-earth campaign killing more than 1,000 civilians, burning an estimated 70 percent of the country's infrastructure and displacing three-quarters of the population.

These days East Timor continues to struggle. According to the World Bank, unemployment has reached 20 percent in urban areas. Life expectancy is in the mid-50s, 1 in 10 children die before the age of 5 and 40 percent of the population cannot read or write. One in five people live on less than $1 a day.

The government and multilateral donors are depending on the oil and gas deposits to improve all this. The donors say they expect that these petroleum reserves will supplant their assistance.

Foreign donors and local officials are optimistic that the provisions in the petroleum fund legislation will prevent the government from spending irresponsibly. Revenue from the Petroleum Fund spent by the government must be accounted for in the national budget, and cannot be spent in any other way, said Ytreland, the Norwegian adviser.

In addition, an independent external audit will be done annually by an internationally recognized accounting firm, while the Banking and Payments Authority, which will operate the fund, will make quarterly public reports, available on the Web. The law also calls for creating a council to monitor investments.

Ytreland said East Timor's adoption of the fund and its apparent commitment to transparency gives it a good chance of beating the odds that have plagued other developing countries."

Source: International Herald Tribune (from UNOTIL Public Information Office, Daily Media Review)

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

My day

Mr “Bibi Malae” had yet again, wrapped himself round and round a shrub so before making my way down our dirt road to the “estrada boot” (or big road which we have just discovered has a name: Saint John Paul II) I had to untie him. He seemed most grateful.

On the “mikrolet” journey this morning to work, a young boy of about 7 or 8 got on along with his mother and infant sister. I was most intrigued by his shoes (most children in Timor go barefoot): a black and fluorescent green pair of canvas sandshoes with the tongues turned back and secured with a single rubber band. Wow I thought, not being able to afford shoes laces, now that’s poverty!

Daniel and I ate “han-meiudia” (lunch) together at our favourite Indonesian/Timorese restaurant. I had the ubiquitous “etu” (cooked (white) rice), stir-fried green “modo” (vegetables) of various persuasions, “fore” (beans), “senoura” (carrots), tempeh, “tahu” (tofu) and a “mantolun sona” (fried egg). The vegetables were a bit salty but that’s okay as I’m constantly losing it through perspiration. I “hemu” (drank) a “sabraka” (orange) concentrate with “bee” (water), “jelu” (ice) and “masin-midar” sugar.

One of the owners of the restaurant has a seven-month old son (born 21 July 2005) who is just gorgeous. Every time I smile at him, his whole face lights up as he returns the gesture. Today, I was allowed to hold him in my lap and he didn’t disappoint. He is one of the most “sente kontente” (feel happy) babies I have seen in Timor (most Timorese babies are “tauk” (scared) of me the “malae” and start crying!)

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

Daniel is ill

Daniel has been very ill for the past ten days with a dreadful strain of influenza whose symptoms mimicked both Malaria and to a lesser degree Dengue Fever. However, blood tests have shown that he has neither. He has never experienced anything quite like this flu. For two or three days, he sweated hot and cold and became delirious upon waking from some very strange dreams. He has been slowly getting better but now has mouth ulcers apparently because of the fever he had. Due to a loss of appetite and the mouth ulcers, Daniel has lost 6kg, which can be considered the only good thing to have come out of the whole episode (I only lost 3kg from my week of lost appetite so he’s done very well in the weight loss stakes).

Poor darling, he has had a series of health issues since we returned from Bali (ear infection, conjunctivitis, serious flu) and is beginning to feel very ‘down’ as a result. Welcome to my world, I said!

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

The President of Portugal visits Timor

The President of Portugal arrived in town today for a three-day visit. The President of Timor presented him with honorary citizenship for all the work he had done on behalf of Timor during his ten year in office (he’s about to step down from the post).

After lunch, I decided to visit the exclusive Hotel Timor to partake in some sweet offering and to savour the air-conditioned environment. On approaching the hotel, I noticed that the surrounding streets were blocked off with numerous police officers milling about, and assumed that the President of Portugal must be staying at the hotel and perhaps a special function was taking place. Inside the hotel, there were many Portuguese lounging about and only one small group of Aussies.

What is interesting about the expats who temporarily live here is the differences in where they work. The Portuguese and other Lusophones overwhelmingly work as advisors to the government and bureaucracy or they teach school teachers Portuguese; rarely do you see them working as volunteers at/or in NGOs. Australians on the other hand work as government and civil servant advisors, military and police trainers, volunteers and in NGOs.

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

My Nanna turns 90

Today is my paternal grandmother’s 90th birthday.

Phyllis Gwendolyn Roberts (nee Martin) was born during WWI in 1916 in Walmer near Deal, Kent, England. She was one of nine children. Phyllis attended primary school and the first year or two of high school before leaving to work as a nanny. In the mid 1930s she met my Welsh born grandfather George who was working as a pastry cook in Deal. They courted and subsequently married. In 1938 at the age of 22, Phyllis gave birth to their first child and my father An(tony). During the 1940s she became pregnant again a number of times but all were lost to miscarriage. In 1950, at the age of 34, Phyllis gave birth to their second child and my only Uncle, Martin. In 1952, the family left post-war England and set sail for a new and better life in Australia.

In Melbourne, Phyllis and George worked together in the hospitality industry managing restaurants in hotels and later established at least two cake shops.

In the early 1970s my grandmother was diagnosed with Multiple Sclerosis. Over subsequent years, she was confined to a wheelchair. My grandfather did a sterling job looking after her while he continued to work as a pasty cook in his own small local cake shop business: Samantha, Tiffany and Drew Cakes.

My grandfather died unexpectedly from septicaemia in December 1997 after a fall from a chair. My father drowned in the bath in April 2000.

My grandmother continues to live alone in her own home with the aid of numerous personal carers.

My Nanna has two biological granddaughters (me and my sister Tiffany) and one grandson (my cousin Drew); and two step granddaughters (Lisa and Donna); one biological great-granddaughter (Riley) and two step great-granddaughters (Morgan and Molly) and one step great-grandson (Tyler).

All my grandparents lived until their 80s: my maternal grandmother Lorna until 83 (road traffic accident); maternal grandfather Albert until 80 (pneumonia); and my paternal grandfather George was a week or so shy of turning 83 (septicaemia). My parents on the other hand have died young: my mother Helen at 32 (liver failure due to Hepatitis B) and my father Tony at 61 (drowning).

When I told “our” Timorese family that my grandmother was turning 90, they were seriously shocked. People simply do not live that long in Timor; in fact, most are dead well before that age. In Timor, the average life expectancy for men is 55 years. The President of East Timor, Xanana Gusmão will be 60 in June and therefore will have lived five years beyond the national average.

What a difference having access to good food, health care and education; and a secure income does for one’s life chances. What an unjust world we live in.

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

Book and DVD update

We’ve been savouring episodes of the fantastic BBC spy drama series Spooks watching one a week. For now they are repeats as I originally saw half of the second series in 2003 and in preparation for watching the remainder of that series and the third one, I am refreshing my memory.

We watched the final four episodes in the first of the new series of Doctor Who, which were simply fabulous. I can’t wait for series two!

We continue to watch the classic BBC comedy Black Adder and this evening completed watching series one (there are four in total). It provides us with many moments of light relief.

Other DVDs we’ve watched recently include In Her Shoes a wonderfully bittersweet drama starring Australian Toni Collette, Cameron Diaz and Shirley MacLaine. It tells the story of the relationship between two very different sisters, which had parallels with my own very difficult relationship with my sister. I highly commend this film. Prime with Uma Thurman and Meryl Streep was likewise enjoyable to watch particularly as the story was about the relationship between an older woman and a younger man, which again had parallels with my own relationship with Daniel.

Daniel’s mum sent him a very Australian DVD for his birthday late last year, which due to the long delays with the mail, we have just recently watched. It is a mokumentary called We Can Be Heroes: Finding the Australian of the Year where the one comic actor plays all the characters both male and female. Contestants for the award are Ricky Wong an Asian-Australian PhD physics student from Melbourne; Ja’mie the private school brat from Sydney who sponsors a record 95 children in Sudan; foul mouthed twins Daniel and Nathan from country South Australia; Pat the one leg shorter than the other rolling woman from Perth; and the most loathsome character of them all Phil from Brisbane who has the ego of a psychopath. It is very funny and so Australian that the humour would be lost on anyone who doesn’t have a self-deprecating sense of humour and an appreciation for satire.

In Bali I purchased VCDs of the BBC series The Human Body narrated by Sir Robert Winston circa 1998 with the intention of donating them to my NGO as it is very difficult to get any quality health education in Timor. I was never able to see the series when it first aired on Australian television as I was living in the USA at the time. However, I have subsequently seen another series that Sir Robert did on the development of babies and infants, which was fascinating. The strange thing about watching the Indonesian version of The Human Body (with Bahasa subtitles) is that the government sensors have blocked out all, and I mean all, naked bodies including pregnant and breastfeeding women and the only birthing scene! The whole series is about the human body for christ sakes, it’s not bloody pornography! It consistently shocks me how some (traditional and/or religious) societies continue to remain so hung up about nudity even when it is in the interests of science education! What sort of health education to Indonesian children receive I wonder? (I know what Timorese children receive, zilch.)

I finally completed reading My God! It’s a Woman but my God! was it difficult! It was the most boring book I think I have ever read (at least in recent living memory). I certainly do not commend this book to you unless you are a flying and aeroplane enthusiast.

I’m now reading proceedings from the conference we attended shortly before departing Australia for Timor: Cooperating with Timor-Leste in Development Bulletin No. 68, October 2005, published by the Development Studies Network, Research School of Social Sciences, Australian National University. It’s really fascinating to read so many papers on such diverse topics especially now that we’ve lived here for eight months; the issues feel so immediate! Topics covered include:

• modern and traditional justice: neither system is delivering justice; moreover, the government of Timor is not willing to pursue justice for the brutal 24-year occupation by Indonesia;
• agriculture: land degradation, deforestation, poor crop yields, subsistence livelihoods, hungry seasons;
• oil and gas exploration and coffee production: Timor’s three main resources where its wealth is concentrated;
• health: high maternal and child mortality rates, respiratory illnesses including TB, malnutrition and the stunted development of children, diarrhoea, malaria, dengue fever;
• women: although the new constitution states equality between the genders in reality it doesn’t exist because the traditional cultures of Timor are incredibly patriarchal; the male animist gods only pass on their wisdom/laws to males and thus women are denied any power; domestic and sexual violence rates are unacceptably high; due to the high birth rate (see family planning), women are denied their full humanity as effectively they are reduced to nothing more than their wombs;
• family planning: there is none! although the government now has a policy; however, most couples do not discuss how many children they want, when and how and this combined with less than 10% of couples utilising contraception, means women just keep reproducing until menopause, hence the highest birth rate in the world at 8 children per woman; child spacing is practically non-existent which threatens the health and lives of women and their children (see health);
• education: woeful due to lack of trained teachers, resources and infrastructure combined with the complicated language policy; and
• communications: libraries, telephones, computers are all affected by poor infrastructure including a lack of electricity outside of the main towns.

I really feel as though I am getting a comprehensive academic education on current day Timor (although a paper on traditional cultural beliefs and practices would have been good). This information is very difficult to obtain otherwise as although there are tens of published books about the country, they are written mostly by white men, and mostly about the events surrounding 1999 and the politics of the 24-year occupation by Indonesia. However, I have also spent the past seven months reading a range of documents, mostly concerning women, domestic and sexual violence, the legal systems (both traditional and modern), prostitution, HIV/AIDs and poverty all of which are produced by local and international NGOs and UN agencies, many of which are difficult to find outside of Timor. This education complements my practical lived experience, and therefore, I am enjoying the read even if the myriad of problems are so overwhelming.

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

Heavy monsoon rains and floods

Heavy rains descended on Dili at 3:30pm this afternoon and continued for one and a half hours solid. It was incredible! These were the first we had witnessed since arriving in Timor and they certainly had an impact. The streets were flooded to above the ankles and for the first time ever, we witnessed the Comoro River in full flow as a torrent of brown water (due to the presence of tonnes of soil as a result of deforestation and slash and burn agricultural practices) came rushing down from the mountains out to the sea. It was a sight to behold.

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

Cuban Doctor crosses border into Indonesia

"A Cuban doctor who was working in East Timor, Ramon Ballestero Escobar (39), crossed the Indonesian-East Timor border and entered the territory of the Indonesian province of East Nusatenggara Wednesday morning because he reportedly could not bear living conditions in the newly independent neighbouring country.

Wirasakti regiment command chief Col Noch Bola said Escobar who had been assigned by the Cuban Government to work in Suai, capital of Covalima district in East Timor, left his station and travelled to Indonesia on the ground that he could no longer live in the former Indonesian province.

Escobar was found by Border Security Task Force Command Chief Lt. Col. Ediwan Prabowo and his men when they were patrolling the border in the Indonesian district of Belu.

During questioning by Lt. Col. Ediwan, Escobar claimed he was seeking asylum in Indonesia.

"The Cuban doctor is seeking asylum so that he can be deported to his country. He said he could no longer live in East Timor under a contract system which was made by the Cuban Government to carry out a humanitarian mission," Noch Bola said.

Citing Escobar, Noch Bola said there was a shortage of supporting facilities in Suai so that the Cuban doctor could not work and live properly.

Noch Bola said Escobar would be taken to Atambua, capital of Belu district, for further interrogation."

Source: Antara (from UNOTIL Public Information Office, Daily Media Review).

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

Outdated cultural beliefs

One of the young Timorese female volunteers that works with my team told me to be careful sitting in front of the fan because I would become sick. Apparently, the fan blows round germs and viruses and I am liable to fall ill as a result.

I cannot begin to tell you how much these ridiculous beliefs with no basis in scientific reasoning irritate me! I will not get sick from cooling myself in front of a fan! I nearly lost my temper with her and tried to explain that it was a Timorese cultural belief not one that people from Australia shared. I had to restrain myself from saying, “you stupid girl, what utter nonsense!”

Dili is such a horrid climate to live in and yet the Timorese have no means of cooling themselves because even if they had the money, their adherence to these outdated irrational cultural beliefs would stop them from purchasing a mere fan. Air conditioners and fans are relatively “new” inventions for the Timorese and when one is available for use (usually at work), they generally won’t turn one on because they believe the moving air will make them ill! Ugghhhh!!!!

This cultural belief is so widespread that it deserves equal footing with the host of others I have come to learn of:

• wrapping babies, infants and new mothers in layers of clothing so they overheat, with the intention of inducing a fever, in the hope of warding off any possible infection whether one is likely or not (unfortunately it is an infection that will induce a fever, not the other way round);
• women not being able to wash their hair (and possibly bathe) for 40 days after giving birth while drinking only hot liquids, bathing in scalding water and sitting close to an open fire (again in the belief that it will ward off any infection);
• not feeding newborns colostrum (not sure why they think this very rich initial breast milk is so dangerous);
• keeping hats on infants heads way past their necessity (possibly again to ward off any possible infection; unfortunately this habit combined with dehydration (which is common) and over-exposing the child to the hot sun can result in sun stroke, and therefore permanent brain damage);
• women not bathing after dark (probably because the animist male gods disapprove);
• and on and on it goes.

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

Teaching children with violence

Timorese communities believe that the only way to teach children is with violence. They do not have the tools or knowledge and therefore understanding that there are more productive and effective ways to parent.

Many participants found it difficult to understand or accept that children should be taught without the use of violence, and said that children would no longer respect their parents if they were not taught with physical force. Many participants admitted often using violence when trying to educate or discipline their children. Participants often remarked that children no longer respect their parents. Almost all participants said that it was necessary to explain to children the difference between their rights and their obligations because people only talk about rights but they forget about obligations.

How can we educate our children if we cannot use force? We have an obligation to teach our children if they oppose us.*

I believe this is a result of the patriarchal, hierarchical, communitarian and poorly educated societies. Only with better education and economic security (particularly for women), will the idea of communication as a tool to resolve problems take root.

*JSMP Training in the Districts of Timor-Leste 2005: Report, Reflection and Recommendations, Judicial System Monitoring Program, Dili, Timor-Leste, January 2006, p. 10

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

Compassion for animals

Compassion for animals

I rescued Mr “Bibi Malae” this morning from strangling himself to death. He’d got all tied up and wound himself around the rusty object he was tethered to outside our property. I spent some time untying him and in doing so, attracted the attention of one of the local girls who lives in my immediate neighbourhood. She was intrigued by me, as I was not only untying Mr “Bibi Malae” but also talking to him as I did so. Was she thinking? that “malae” must be ‘crackers’ (as Wallace would say).

Compassion for animals 2

What is it that possesses someone to throw stones at an animal when it isn’t doing anything to warrant such a response?

The young man was taking an afternoon siesta on the top of a brick wall some metres off the ground. He sat up and began throwing stones at a passing dog. Why? What was the dog doing or about to do? This man was in no danger. Or did they perhaps share an unhappy history?

I guess it comes down to bad habits and behaviour learnt by watching others. Thus, change is possible.

Another education program I’m adding to my list for Timor is animal rights. (Mind you, we in the West need this too, particularly with respect to our food animals and those we purchase on impulse from pet shops at Christmas time to then dump months later after the novelty has worn off. The unwanted animal often finds its way to a shelter where it is soon euthanised after a new home isn’t in the offing.)

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

Defamation article violates Constitution

"Speaking from his knowledge as a former lawyer, MP Manuel Tilman has declared that the Defamation Article in the Penal Code, if applied, will violate the Constitution, in particular the articles in the Constitution on Freedom of Expression and Press Freedom. He said that a journalist could receive three years in prison for saying the wrong thing, even in his/her capacity as a journalist. He stated that the Code has not yet been approved by the President, due to the issues surrounding this particular article, as well as one other."

Source: Suara Timor Lorosae (from UNOTIL Public Information Office, Daily Media Review).

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

F-FDTL strike considered a revolt

"The National Defence Force of Timor-Leste (F-FDTL) demonstration held in front of the Presidential Office last Wednesday is considered a revolt against the institution of the F-FDTL and the state, according to F-FDTL Commander Brigadier General Taur Matan Ruak. He said that one of the consequences of the action of the soldiers is that the people will consider them rebels or mutineers, and another consequence is that their action caused the President to cry. Speaking to journalists last Friday, Ruak explained that in his opinion they had no right to cause the President to cry, because the President is the father of this nation. He stated that from the East to the West, and the North to the South of this country, there is no family that did not suffer from the war. He added that even though the demonstration by the more than 400 soldiers has presented a significant problem for the country, it is possible for the problem to be resolved, as seen by the 174 soldiers who have already returned to their barracks as of last Thursday. He added that an investigation into the concerns would begin soon.

Meanwhile, Fretilin Vice-Secretary General Jose Reis has asked Fretilin militants and followers not to pay attention to the issue of “East” and “West”, as all Timorese are one people. According to Reis, it was white people who originally divided the country by using these terms, but Fretilin has always defended the unity of the whole country, and rejects divisions and regionalism.

Additionally, PSD MP and former Falintil Secretary for Region III Riak Leman has expressed his opinion that the “West” is West Timor or Indonesia, while the “East” is Timor-Leste. He stated that there should be no divisions based upon geographical location within Timor-Leste."

Source: Suara Timor Lorosae & Timor Post (from UNOTIL Public Information Office, Daily Media Review).

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

Concern over defamation law

I’m now on the United Nations Office in Timor-Leste’s (UNOTIL) Daily Media Review email list, which provides me with invaluable articles from various news sources translated into English about what’s going on in Timor. I’ve decided to include some of the more interesting articles in my posts. The first one concerns the government’s decision to criminalise defamation. However, the President has sent this particular article of the new Penal Code back to the parliament for reconsideration. I do hope that the elected representatives of Timor understand the serious implications of criminalising defamation rather than making it a civil matter.

"Journalists and human-rights organisations within Timor-Leste and internationally are increasingly concerned about the consequences of a new penal code on defamation, which includes the penalty of up to three years’ imprisonment for defaming a public figure. Prime Minister Mari Alkatiri signed an executive decree approving the proposed law in December. It is now waiting to be signed into law by President Xanana Gusmao.

Journalists and legal experts within Timor-Leste are dismayed that the defamation law has got this far without any parliamentary debate or public consultation. According to the South East Asian Press Alliance (SEAPA), “The new laws will dissuade journalists from speaking up on good governance and transparency in the conduct of the state affairs” and “It will also stifle the freedom of expression the East Timorese need to participate in and advance their hard-won democracy”.

Under Article 176 of the law, the term of imprisonment for defamation has been doubled from one to two years. In instances where the defamation is both through the media and is deemed to have been committed against individuals performing “public, religious or political duties”, the term of imprisonment is increased to three years. There is no limit on the level of fines that can be imposed.

In the context of Timor-Leste’s relatively new and poorly resourced judiciary and with presidential and national assembly elections due in 2007, SEAPA warned that “Criminal defamation provisions could be misapplied or broadly interpreted, to the detriment of freedom of expression”.

The International Press Institute has written to Gusmao stating its concerns over the law, noting that “in seeking to replace the Indonesian Penal Code, the East Timorese government is merely replacing one repressive law with another”."

Source: Green Left Weekly (from UNOTIL Public Information Office, Daily Media Review).

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

Motorcycle accidents

The traffic along the Comoro Road between the airport turnoff and the Comoro River this morning was banked up. It soon became clear why; a motorbike and a small truck had collided. There were two tin pot ice cream helmets on the road but no obvious sign of the passengers. As is the norm when such accidents occur, a huge crowd had formed while tens of police officers milled about (the National Police Training Academy is nearby).

We know of many “malae” who ride motorbikes in Timor but it is not something we wish to do. We have talked about it at length but the risks are too great. At least most of the “malae” we know wear Australian standard helmets. We know of an Australian Christian brother who was involved in a head on collision and has been in a coma for five years! A Japanese woman was involved in a very serious accident on the Comoro Road not long after she arrived in Timor. She sustained such serious head injuries that she was evacuated to Singapore for brain surgery and then sent back to Japan for rehabilitation. Amazingly, she subsequently returned to Timor and has been here for five years but has not ridden a motorcycle since.

Timorese ride motorcycles in such a way as to greatly increase the odds of them dying. Many do not wear helmets or if they do, they are of the ice cream bucket variety. Many men and women ride together with the woman on the back riding sidesaddle, often with a baby in her arms. We have seen small families all on one bike; father driving, mother and two or three children as passengers, yet only the father wears a helmet. Every time I see such scenes, I wince, wondering if the children will ever live to see adulthood.

Many more people own a motorcycle than they do a car because it is more affordable; and because families are large, you would expect people to utilise a motorcycle in the same way as a car. However, because of the lack of education around road safety issues and the lack of money to purchase safety standard helmets, Timorese engage in very high risk and life threatening behaviour.

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

Violence as a means of resolving problems

Today my team conducted children’s rights training with grade four primary school students from the nearby school. I had an opportunity to talk to the coordinator of my team who is due to give birth to her fourth child early next month (see Return to work).

My colleague is 38 years old and is the fourth of six children (female, male, male, female, male, male). Her eldest sister is in her late 40s and is already a grandmother to four grandchildren. One of their younger brothers died of kidney failure at the age of 18. Their mother died in 1999 due to kidney failure and stomach problems. Kidney problems are very common in Timor due to the lack of access to clean drinking water and the fact that common health education which we now take for granted in the West (eg drink at least two litres of water a day) is unheard of here. My colleagues think it strange that I drink so much water (at least three litres a day due to the amount I lose through perspiration) and when I tell them that they should too for good health, they look a little bemused.

My colleague’s father is 67 years old and still working as a teacher in a secondary school! He teaches Portuguese to both students and teachers. Her father used violence against both his children and his students as a disciplining tool. Likewise, my father used violence against my sister and me. Thus, authoritarian fathers similarly raised us. We talked about this and how in Australia, it has only been in recent decades that new parenting methods have been “introduced” and discussed (the ideal of which is authoritative). However, although it is an improvement on previous generations, we’re still a long way off in raising children without resorting to violence. In Timor the issue of parental and familial violence against children is only now being discussed and at a much less complex and smaller level.

My colleague said that Timorese culture in general, uses violence to resolve problems, and that there is very little use of dialogue and communication as these conflict resolution methods require a skill level not yet available to most people. Moreover, as Timor is a hierarchical communitarian society with strong social rules that dictate behaviour, people are not socialised to question what is right and wrong, to formulate and internalise their own values and ethics, as a guiding framework for their lives. Thus, people simply follow what their elders (parents and community leaders) instruct them to do without question. And when people break the rules, the punishment tends to involve violence and humiliation, with the intention of making sure that people conform to the prevailing social order.

My colleagues are attempting to address the issue of violence in Timorese societies by educating children and adults that violence is not okay and that there are other more constructive ways to resolve problems. It is an admirable project but again I wonder how it will be achieved without fundamentally changing the nature of Timorese societies. To question the prevailing culture and social norms requires people to think critically and for themselves, which fundamentally is the nature of what it means to be an individual and not solely a member of a community.

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

If you’re happy and you know it clap your hands

As I was walking from my office to Daniel’s this evening, I passed a small group of children singing and clapping to a very familiar song. However, the words were different as they sung in Tetum and the words “mane” (man) and “feto” (woman) used throughout. As I walked by, I hummed along and moved my head with the rhythm. The children noticed me and enjoyed having a receptive audience.

The Mary MacKillop Sisters of Sydney came to Timor during the 1990s to collect children’s stories and songs in order to write them down in Tetum to distribute to children. They also passed on some English songs at least one of which now has a Timorese version:

If you’re happy and you know it clap your hands
If you’re happy and you know it and you really want to show itIf you’re happy and you know it clap your hands

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

The elusive lake

Tonight we walked to the elusive third lake at Tasitolu Peace Park; the one we finally saw from the window of the aeroplane upon leaving Dili for Bali (see Dili to Denpasar Bali). This lake turned out to be fairly uninteresting as you cannot circumnavigate its shore and there was hardly a bird in sight. Still, it was interesting to see the view of the area from a different perspective and we spent some time contemplating the history of the numerous burnt out buildings in its vicinity. As this lake is right on the edge of the border between Dili and the district of Liquiçá, I speculated that the buildings were once some form of Immigration control used by the Indonesian military to track the movements of its beleaguered Timorese citizenry. However, the whole area was also a dumping ground for murdered Timorese so perhaps the buildings were used for even more sinister activities such as torture. It is certainly a disquieting experience to walk around the remains of buildings, where it is not beyond the realm of the impossible, that such things took place.

Book update

Last weekend I completed reading The Understanding of Jenner Ransfield by Imogen de la Bere. However, I was most disappointed with the ending! I had so enjoyed reading this book but the ending was all wrong. (I cannot remember the last book I read where I felt cheated by the ending. On the other hand, I have of late read mediocre to downright dreadful novels.) If the book is made into a film, the ending will most definitely have to be changed. Because of its shortcomings, I’m not sure that I can recommend the book. What a dilemma!

Shortly prior to Christmas, I began reading the autobiography of Nancy Bird Walton, one of Australia’s pioneer aviators, My God! It’s a Woman. I’ve taken it up again as I’m determined to get through it but unfortunately, it’s quite boring. Bird spends at least the first quarter of the book talking about other people, which soon begins to feel like the book’s simply a list of male flying enthusiasts and their feats circa 1930. I’m normally very interested in the history of women pioneers of various persuasion. Perhaps it’s just that I’m not really interested in the history of aviation? (aeroplanes and airports, you may be surprised to learn, do not inflame my passions).

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

The invisible thieves

We met my friend Zelia (the one who is studying English at university) for lunch today in order to give her the electronic dictionary I purchased for her in Bali. However, she first presented me with my first “tais” which took her sister in Los Palos four full days to weave. It is beautiful and includes my favourite colours green and purple.

Unfortunately, Zelia’s house has been broken into about seven times in the recent past and so I am not sure how long she will be in possession of the dictionary! The story surrounding the break-ins is also intriguing. Apparently, a gang of youths who have named themselves 777 are the culprits. We have noticed the number 7 spray-painted on poles near the 7km marker, which marks the distance from the centre of Dili on the major road in our neighbourhood. We thought the 7km distance had something to do with it but perhaps it’s gang related? However, Zelia told us that the gang is based in a different neighbourhood. Anyway, the gang mostly break in at night when Zelia and her “brothers” are sleeping. They steal things like bags of rice, the rice cooker and radio (after all, there is not much to steal from other poor Timorese). No one ever hears them entering, stealing or leaving. When I questioned her as to why this was she said that the gang has killed people and uses the dust from their bodies (presumably burnt although I believe most bodies in Timor are buried not cremated) to cover themselves which then makes them invisible. Thus, they are neither seen nor heard and the police cannot catch them either.

Now, I have to tell you that my disbelief was very high during this little conversation, higher than it has ever been since I arrived in Timor for how could I respond to such utter nonsense. This was a classic example of a traditional animistic Timorese belief clashing with the ears of someone who hails from a modern rational scientific society. It’s ever so frustrating to have to listen to such things, smile sweetly and say nothing.

Zelia wanted to see us again the following weekend, which usually happens when we see her. However, I simply cannot see her that often. I have very little in common with her (apart from our shared humanity and gender) and just one hour can be a strain because I do not know what to talk about, especially when she talks of such irrational things as invisible thieves. When I told her that we were busy, she said “then what about the weekend after that?” So I said that I would email her soon to arrange another time to meet. Once a month is fair in my estimation but even then, I feel I’m giving too much for even at home in Melbourne, I rarely see my friends that often! (But how do I explain this to her?) More importantly, the relationship I have with her is not equal. I am in a much more powerful position than she is and this is no basis for a friendship. Friendships must include mutuality and shared interests. I consider Zelia an acquaintance (but one whom I help much more than other acquaintances) but she considers both Daniel and I “family”. As we all know, with family comes a whole host of expectations, responsibilities and the big one: guilt. Her idea of “friendship” and “family” are clearly very different to mine. For these reasons, it is very difficult forming and maintaining close relationships with Timorese; the life and education experience and cultural divide is immense.

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

Farewell to another “malae”

Another of Daniel’s Australian “malae” colleagues departed today after a total of three years in Timor. She had worked at Daniel’s NGO for less than one of those years. A celebration was held in her honour last night beginning at Daniel’s workplace. Unfortunately, vegetarians were not catered for so all I could eat were potato and cassava chips. It was a much smaller and quieter affair than the previous goodbye do (see Baku malu number 2). A highlight of the evening was when Daniel shared a couple dance with one of his male Timorese colleagues! To see them dancing as a couple with Daniel towering over his colleague was indeed a sight to behold.

At around 9pm we moved on to a local “malae” hangout. I have never been out on a Friday or Saturday night in Dili to one of the popular places and it was a shock! so many “malae” and so many of them men. I was introduced to a gay Mexican man and his Brazilian partner both of whom work for the UN. This was only my second and third introduction to gay men in Timor; the first being a gay Timorese Australian man. I also discovered that evening that my doctor is gay and lives here with his partner.

We only stayed to around 10pm as I was very tired and it is difficult trying to get home by taxi late at night. So we bid adieu to the departing “malae” colleague and wished her well.

[On return to work on Monday, Daniel discovered that the evening went on until 4am most of which was spent at another bar singing karaoke.]

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

Australia criticised in CAVR report

Tonight Radio Australia reported that Australia is accused of supporting the delay of the 1999 ballot for East Timor’s independence by actively lobbying Jakarta and telling the Indonesian government, that it preferred instead that the tiny country remain a province of Indonesia! These accusations come on top of other criticisms that Australia knew that Indonesia was planning to invade East Timor in 1975 and turned a blind eye. You can read all about it in chapter 8 of the yet to be publicly released CAVR report, which runs to 2,500 pages.

The Australian government has gone on the defensive, choosing not to answer the accusation and instead, focusing on its “heroic” role in leading the International Force in East Timor (INTERFET) in September 1999 while continuing to paint itself as the “saviour” of Timor. Typical! Perhaps a few more of those Liberal pollies should read Clinton Fernandes’ Reluctant Saviour: Australia, Indonesia and the Independence of East Timor.

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

Sam’s interview on Radio Australia

This morning I was interviewed on the Australian Broadcasting Corporation’s Radio Australia, which is broadcast throughout the Asia, Pacific and Middle East region. The program was the Breakfast Club with co-presenter Phil and guest presenter Tania. I had prepared beforehand but was still nervous when the phone rang at 9:40am. Unfortunately, the interview only went for five or so minutes so I wasn’t able to talk about volunteering in Timor in as comprehensive way as I would have liked; but that’s what the blog is for!

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)

Taxi driver and “mikrolet” conductor school of etiquette

I’ve decided that Timor needs a taxi driver and “mikrolet” conductor school of etiquette. Today I was walking back from Daniel’s office to mine and as usual, felt like a sex worker plying my trade on the streets of Dili. Just before I came to the junction where my office is located, a taxi crept up on me so quietly that I did not know that it was on my tail until it beeped its alternative sounding horn and I just about jumped out of my skin. I was so furious while motioning with my hand and saying “lae” (no) that as he drove off, I said “asshole” at normal pitch.

One of the Aussie blokes who gave me a lift back to work on Australia Day (see Australia/Invasion Day) told me that there are 3,000 taxis in Dili with a total population of 170,000 inhabitants. Taxis therefore represent 1.76% of the population. In comparison, the equivalent in Melbourne based on 1995 figures is 144 taxis for every 170,000 people! Notwithstanding the fact that private car ownership in Timor is very low, this is a hell of a lot of taxis!

On tonight’s “mikrolet” journey home the conductor went on and on and on about how “isin boot” (big bodied) the “malae” were and how they should pay more money. We understood most of what he said and I was in absolutely no mood for his shenanigans. I felt like saying, “hey buddy, I’ve lost 8kg in 7 months so who you calling big?” but didn’t know the words in Tetum so instead said “ami hatene Tetum” (we understand Tetum) and “isin boot saúdi diak” (big body is healthy), “isin krekas saúdi la diak” (thin body is unhealthy). The other male passengers were very supportive of us and told the “mikrolet” driver off as the “malae koalia Tetum” (foreigners speak Tetum) and that they had learned it from books and therefore we were “matenek” (clever). The conductor was suitably contrite and attempted to make amends with us by shaking our hands and asking where we were from and where we lived.

When we got off the “mikrolet” and walked down our street, there were heaps of kids out playing so we had many greetings to make. At the bend of the road, which leads to our house, a little girl of about three, ran up to me stark naked and held my hand (she has done this before). I asked her “o ropa iha nebee?” (your clothes are where?) and she replied “ba uma” (at home). She was so thin but had the tell tale signs of malnutrition as her belly was distended. I thought this is exactly the kind of “isin krekas” that is so unhealthy in Timor; most Timorese are thin not because they’re healthy but because they’re underfed and malnourished, and even though I am overweight, I know that I am much healthier than most Timorese because I was fortunate to be born in a country with plenty of food.

Normally I don’t mind “mikrolet” conductors’ comments as I’m pretty use to them now but when one goes on and on and on talking at all the other passengers as if we do not understand, I simply think it’s incredibly rude not to mention, discriminatory! How dare he want to charge us more simply because we’re better fed! Hasn’t he heard of the National Association to Advance Fat Acceptance? Perhaps I should start up a chapter in Timor (there’s certainly enough large “malae” about the place not to mention the occasional Timorese). And perhaps someone should start up an etiquette school for taxi drivers and “mikrolet” conductors because if their behaviour does not improve, I really will start demanding my own private transport, and preferably my little jet engine fighter (as Daniel calls my 17 year old Saab which is safely housed in Melbourne).

Category: Timor-Leste (East Timor)